The great wildebeest migration is a spectacular natural occurrence due to the rains creating new grass at different times of year in the great east African savanna plains known as the Serengeti and the Masai Mara.
Bear in mind that although the Serengeti is in Tanzania and the Masai Mara is in Kenya this is the same ecosystem with the country border having been drawn by a ruler in colonial times without respect for the movement of people or animals, which continue their movements as they have done since time immemorial.
It is famous for being the largest single overland movement of wild animals in the world.
Two things are worth bearing in mind when viewing the migration.
1. Its popularity means that it is often not the peaceful and tranquil safari experience people expect.
2. It is also relatively time consuming to cross between the two countries since the border posts are at each end of the plains and you are not permitted to take the short cut followed by the wildebeest!
Therefore, some consideration as when you might visit will aid in trying to time it according to the movement of the herds and choosing which country to visit. Although both are possible if you have a bit of time to spare.
The Cycle…
We’ll start in November although this is a cycle so in reality there is no beginning or end – the wildebeest and accompanying zebra and antelope keep on going round and round their entire lives!
November/December
The short rains fall in November and December and the grass in the southern Serengeti springs to life. The wildebeest, sensing the rains, or with the sweet smell of new grass in their nostrils head south out of the Mara (having consumed much of the grass there), moving rapidly without stopping down the ‘eastern corridor’ to the southern plains. There are an estimated 2 million wildebeest along with zebras, eland, gazelles and impalas, and some accompanying predators too.
January, February, March
In January, February, and March the wildebeest live on the vast grasslands of the southern Serengeti. Moving slowing and eating the fresh grass. They also give birth en-masse during a 3–4-week period – about half a million calves are born at the rate of about 8000 a day. Remarkably the calves can stand up within 2 minutes of being born. The resulting glut of food is too much for the predators, so the majority of the calves survive.
This is an incredibly exciting time to view the migration. They aren’t moving too quickly so their location is easier to pinpoint, and the green grass and new life makes for exciting wildlife viewing. The Ndutu area is a good place to view them as there are good predator numbers here, but they are generally quite spread out across the whole southern region at this time.
Visitor numbers are also less at this time of year, both reasons that I prefer to view the migration at this time.
April, May, June
Sometime around April (its not entirely accurate) as the southern grasslands have been eaten and begin to dry up, the ‘big rains’ fall. Sensing the smell of rain once again and facing hunger in the southern plains the herds begin to move westward and northward. The herd doesn’t stick together, some head far out west before turning north towards the northern plains of the Masai Mara. Some groups take a more direct route northward.
The herds are therefore quite spread out in different groups across the central plains and western corridor area. In terms of visiting, it can be pretty wet in April, and the thick black cotton soils of the Serengeti can get boggy and be difficult to negotiate. Plus, many lodges close during the big rains to give their staff time off. April is probably the worst time to try and view the migration.
June and July
Turning north, the wildebeest, still in the Tanzanian section of the plains, arrive at edge of the swollen Mara river, waiting to cross. The river crossing carries many dangers, so they wait until, who knows? They are so desperately hungry for the sweet grass of the northern plains that they simply can’t resist? Or perhaps the numbers behind them grow so great that they are pushed before they can leap into the murky waters below?
Whatever the case, it begins with one or a few wildebeest leaping into the river, followed by more and more. This is one of the great wildlife sights on earth although not for the faint-hearted, as they stamp on each other to ensure their own survival. Enormous Nile crocodile prey upon them all, especially the young and the weak animals. It is nature at its most violent.
There are quite a number of lodges and tented camps in this remote part of the northern Serengeti. It is 2 days drive from Arusha, or a short flight to the northern airstrips. Most choose to fly one way and drive the other, taking in the Ngorongoro Crater at the same time. As mentioned you can cross over into the Mara in Kenya but it is also time-consuming and not really necessary unless you want to cover both options in July or October.
It is worth remembering that many lodges fill up over a year in advance, and that the wildlife viewing here can be ridiculously crowded with vehicles and drivers jostling to try and give their clients the best views.
It is a bit of a circus, and the crossings don’t happen every day so you need to prepare for the crowds and to spend a good few days here if you want to view an actual crossing. Not all operators are totally upfront about this.
July to October (roughly)
Anyway, at some point between July and August the wildebeest make it over the Mara River to the sweet new grass of the northern plains which are mainly in Kenya. When they actually arrive in the Masai Mara isn’t entirely predictable as some years they may arrive early, other years late, (and some animals shorten their journey by remaining in the northern Serengeti). As before in the southern plains, they spread out to graze and move more slowly, but as a general rule by August much of the herd should be in Kenya.
The increased food and slower movement is also conducive to the rut, when the males fight for the females. The males are very aggressive and noisy during this time!
The herd remains in the northern plains for a few months, moving more slowly and grazing as they progress until roughly the end of October. They spread out across the entire area – National Park as well as the private reserves – since there are no fences or borders for them and they need to eat as much as they can before the long journey south once more.
Once again the actual departure date isn’t precise and if the short rains begin early in the south they may leave earlier. Generally, July to mid-October is a good time to view the migration in the Mara (Kenya).
The journey south is not quite as fraught with danger, as the river crossing is much easier, but it is fast-paced with the predators picking off plenty of the weak, injured and the old.
More about Wildebeest
The term wildebeest comes from the Afrikaans term ‘Wild Beast’. The term gnu comes from the African name.
There are two species of wildebeest, the black wildebeest and the blue wildebeest. It is the blue wildebeest that takes part in the migration. They are part of the antelope family and are also known as the white bearded wildebeest or the brindled gnu. They can grow up to 8 feet long and weigh 600 pounds. The wildebeest is a herbivore. Their diet consists mainly of short grasses. If food is scarce they will eat the leaves of shrubs and trees.
A herd can eat around 4000 tons of grass a day which is why they need to constantly move. The wildebeest have a close relationship with the zebras when it comes to eating the grass. The zebras eat the upper most grass leaving the lower greener grass for the wildebeest.
Wildebeest are fast runners being able to run at speeds up to 50 miles an hour and have great stamina, giving them an advantage when being chased by predators. During the migration around 250,000 wildebeest will die due to hunger, thirst, exhaustion and predators.
The migration is needed by the Serengeti ecosystem, and although it is sad that migrating animals will die this is the famous ‘circle of life’ from the Lion King! The predators need food, and the decaying bodies provides for local scavengers including vultures and fish. Ultimately leaving behind nutrients and minerals that go back into the soil to create a complete ecosystem.
Please contact us if you wish to see the wildebeest migration and we can give you more specific advice and a quotation if desired.
