Kanchanaburi, River Khwae (Kwai), Hellfire Pass
We arrived in Bangkok and transferred to Kanchanaburi and the eastern highlands which form the border with Myanmar.
Getting There. There are options to travel by vehicle (c 4 hours from airport) or a scenic rail journey (2. 5 hours from Thonburi Station, Bangkok), part of which is the notorious ‘Death Railway’ built by the Japanese using POW and local labour (more on this later.)
We skipped Bangkok this time but for first-timers to Thailand would recommend a day or two to explore this dynamic city’s temples, palaces, river and markets.
We decided to stay about 45 minutes outside Kanchanaburi in a tranquil jungle resort, high above the Khwae (Kwai) Noi River, famous for the story of building of the ‘Death Railway’ between Thailand and Burma during the war.
Mae Klong, Khwae or Kwai? How a movie can influence a name!
The name of the river which the famous bridge crosses was changed from the original Thai name, Mae Klong, following the book and then movie which has made the area famous. There are actually 2 rivers – the larger Mae Klong and its tributary the Khwae Noi. The bridge spans the Mae Klong at Kanchanaburi, but Pierre Boulle who wrote the book thought that the bridge crossed the Khwae Noi tributary. So, following the success of the movie to avoid confusion the Mae Klong was renamed Khwae Yai (Large River). However the railway then follows the smaller Khwae Noi (meaning little tributary and pronounced Kware Noy).
For more about the fact and fiction surrounding “The Bridge over the River Kwai” movie and the sad history of the Burma-Siam Railway, check out this excellent article by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission.
Saiyok National Park
Our resort, the Home Phutoey River Kwai Resort was near to the Saiyok National Park which the Kwai Noi runs through.
The scenery here is some of the most beautiful in Thailand with the river surrounded by lush tropical plants, waterfalls, lakes and dramatic limestone karst formations.
Jungle Hikes and Waterfalls
Waking up in our chalets to the bird calls and animal noises in the surrounding jungle was an evocative and tranquil experience. Breakfast was had on a platform overlooking the surrounding forest and river.
From our base in the jungle above the River Khwae we explored the local area, hiking up to the Erawan Falls in the emerald green Erawan National Park, and hiking to the the Sai Yok Noi Waterfall.
Tip – take water, sunscreen and insect repellent. Short hikes are fine for older kids.
Hellfire Pass Interpretive Centre and Trail
We also visited nearby Hellfire Pass and the moving Australian run war museum and memorial walk there. Click here for the story of the creation of the Hellfire Pass Interpretive Centre and Memorial Walking Trail.
We were all moved by the small museum and short film – especially eye-opening for the kids was a pile of rocks which showed what the prisoners were expected to move each day in bare feet and intense heat. And right next to it was a tiny bowl of rice grains – their daily ration!
Fitness Note: the walk through Hellfire Pass is not too long to the main memorial area, although the way up and down has quite a few steps or a ramp. However for the longer walk to the sites of Three-Tier Bridge and Pack of Cards Bridge you will need to take water, and the centre issues walkie talkies in case you encounter difficulties. Allow at least 3 hours for the centre and longer walk. The terrain is uneven, sometimes steep, and difficult to walk on (hard to imagine those men doing it in bare feet!), and a certain amount of fitness is required due to the steps, heat and (often) tropical rain.
We advise taking the free handheld audio guides with tales from survivors making the visit even more evocative, and you can also download these tales directly from the centre’s website.
The Hellfire Pass Interpretive Centre Website
Kanchanburi and the Death Railway
We decided to do the rail journey one way (probably enough for most people) so left our car at Namtok Station (the end of the line) and rode in a local taxi down to Kanchanaburi, visiting the JEATH museum, war cemetery and, of course, walking across the famous bridge – actually Bridge 277, the second of two bridges the Japanese built over the Khwae Yai.
Note: there are passing places to stand if a train comes along and the train driver gives bridge walkers plenty of warning by tooting loudly before commencing the crossing.
The concrete pillars of the bridge still bear shrapnel damage, and the middle section which was destroyed by allied bombers has been replaced by straight sections, whereas the original curved arches at each end remain in original form. The second temporary wooden bridge was dismantled after the war. Below is a picture taken just after the bridge was bombed, from the museum in our resort.
Today, the meandering river surrounded by restaurants, colourful markets and bustling long-tail boats, is a charming, idyllic spot, and hard to reconcile with the incredible suffering and horrendous conditions the men who built it went through.
We rode the final train of the day back to Namtok, near our resort, departing the station at the Bridge at 16:21 (timetable is posted at the station along with any amendments).
Travellers’ Tip: this later train was an excellent choice. It was cooler and most of the day-trippers had gone home for the day, so we had the train pretty much to ourselves, plus wonderful sunset vistas as we followed the Khwae Noi back up the valley.
River Khwae Noi – Death Railway Train Trip – wooden trestle section
Note: the best views are to be had on the left hand side of the train when travelling upriver towards Namtok, and on the right hand side when travelling downriver to Kanchanaburi and Bangkok. Tickets can be purchased 30 minutes before boarding or on the train itself.
Relaxation and More History
Back at our resort kids (big and little!) enjoyed the really fun jungle zip-lining activity and swimming in the pool.
As history lovers we were delighted to discover that the resort has its own fascinating Death Railway Museum – The Weary Dunlop Park – a tribute to the incredible Australian POW surgeon Lieutenant-Colonel E.E. ‘Weary’ Dunlop , with a replica of a POW ‘hospital’, and a wartime locomotive perched above it.
Created by the Thai owner, Mr Kanit Wanachote, after his meeting with and lifelong friendship with Dunlop, the resort and museum holds some fascinating artifacts, photographs and paintings, and has hosted numerous war veteran memorial events down the years.
We decided that it was well worth spending a few days near Kanchanaburi to appreciate not only the stunning natural scenery and lush tropical jungle, but also to fully appreciate how this paradise could equally be a scene of death and torture as the Japanese pushed their prisoners and local workers to complete the Burma-Siam railway in record time during their ‘speedo’ phase.
Our visit here was beautiful, moving and extra-ordinary for all ages.
Next ….. Wellness, Beaches, Shrines, Seafood and Elephants…part 2!
Or, explore our Thailand Trip Ideas.
